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Yo, Ron; An update on the soil-grown, over-fed, flowering plant. It turned out to be a beauty! Unfortunately, when I severely topped the plant, it created hermaphrodites, which, in turn, pollinated the entire plant. Harvested same before it could ruin the crop. Now, with pollen being microscopic, what would you use, or how would you prep the grow room for the next batch - getting rid of the pollen so it doesn't pollinate my next girls? Does pollen die after a while?
If it's anything like sperm, then not very long.
Tailwheel, I’m feeding my tomato plants with the nutrient Ron has recommended - Rockwool Formula One, mixing 1.5 teaspoons/gallon (each of part A and B) per the directions – have been doing this since day one. I bought an inexpensive pH soil tester (rapitest) that is for soil and tested it this evening by just using the water/nutrient mix from the reservoir. If it’s correct, my pH is approximately 5.0 which is somewhat acidic. I’ve read so many suggestions on how to adjust – ideas on cheapest/simplest way(s) ?? Any further suggestions would be great, thanks your time. Tim
If you're using Perlite, won't it float over the top of the cup when the water is entering the cups or is something needed on top of the cu?
Don't let the water go higher than the cups, then the perlite won't float out. Even grow rocks will float out of the cups if the water goes to high. That is what the overflow pipe is for, to control how high the water rises in the bottles.
hi, i set up a hydroponics system that has about 12 plants growing in it right now. I use the formula 1 A and B for the solution. i am having somewhat good results, but i dont know what kind of lighting i should use. what do you recommend as the best for the cheapest price. thanks, cc
HPS or MH
Hello Ron,
Thanks a heap for all the help. I have no choice but to build a grow box because of limited space. I’ve read your Q&A and pretty much substituted grow box for closet to help get myself started, but I’d like to double check.
So far I have 4 Power Growers (sorry, I found your site after I bought them) and a 430 Watt Son Agro.
I’m planning on building a box and hanging the Son Agro at the top with a chain in which I can adjust the distance. Also, I will put in intake and exhaust fans.
The simple box: 2x4s and plywood lined with Mylar. Can you point out some obvious-to-you-but-not-me stuff that I MUST get, do, or not do before I start. Very limited resources where I live and I very much appreciate your input.
Pablo
You need two boxes. one for the plants and a lower one for the reservoir. Like this.
Attn: Tim
I've had more trouble lowering Ph than raising it, but I understand that baking soda can do it for you. I would suggest that you measure out 1 gallon of water and check the Ph. Then carefully add 1 level teaspoon of soda into the water and check the Ph again. Keep doing this until you get a Ph of 6.
This will give you the ratio per gallon that you will need to add to the total solution.
Instead of Miracle Grow, I use Peters Professional Plant food that is 20-20-20, bought at Home Depot. The Phosporous is derived from phosporic acid and helps me maintain a constant Ph. I use 2 teaspoons/gal and add 1/2 teaspoon/gal each of Calcium Nitrate and Epson salts. I mix each component seperately in 1 gallon of water and then add each to the tank to avoid calcium coming out of the solution.
I use a small Ph testing solution that I got at Petsmart (fish tank tester) for about $2.50. It's made for water and I just keep the color in the light yellow.
You must keep in mind that plants will not absorb nutrient properly if the Ph is not correct. Ron swears by Formula one, so I think that the Ph is your problem.
Tailwheel
Tailwheel
Just curious on your drip system do you leave it on 24 ? and do you aerate the water in your reservoir.
Pingman
Hey, Tim; From the same place you got the Formula One, get some Ph Down, or Ph up. It's real cheap, and very easy to use. I use a syringe that you get from the drug store (the kind you use to measure liquid medicines for infant children) (about $2.00/ea) and measure the Ph adjuster. 1cc will adjust one gallon of water (or nutrient solution) up or down by .5ppm. My tap water usually runs about 3.5Ph, but, after I add the nutes, I come out at about 4.5. So I add 3ccs to bring it to 6.0. (I'm not growing tomatoes)
Attn: Pingman
Yes, I have a GE 15 minute timer and run it 15 mins. on/off 24 hrs./day. Except between 10 AM and 6PM it's set to 30 mins. on and 15 mins. off cause that's the hottest part of the day.
The feed tubing I use is .156 in. inside diameter, and I'm beginning to think that it's a bit small. I got a length of 3/4 in. PVC tube yesterday and some 1/4 in. inside diameter feed tubing yesterday at Home Depot to experiment with. I'm first going to drill 10 holes in the 3/4 in. and countersink them, then press the .156 tubing in the holes and check what kind of flow I get. Then I will do the same again with larger holes for the 1/4 in. inside diameter feed tube and check the flow again. With 49 outlets needed on my other garden, I need more flow and want to use regular PVC pipe instead of the smaller pipe used on the Dig Corp. emmitter system. If it works, I'll send a sketch to Ron.
Sorry about the promised pics, I've just been too busy to get out in the back yard and get them, maybe this morning I can do it.
Tailwheel
Attn: Pingman
Forgot to mention that I do not use a airstone for aeration. I feel that the 15 mins. on/off keeps the nutrient aerated enough just by circulating it.
Tailwheel
Attn: J. Wright
Re: 32 oz. cups
I thought about this as well, so I went to the local 7-11 and asked if they would sell me the cups. It turns out that they are charged by the 7-11 headquarters for a full cup that is sold. That's how headquarters makes it's money on their franchise. They very tightly control the cup inventory and wouldn't even discuss selling to me. They just said, buy a couple hundred Big Gulps and you will have your cups.
Tailwheel
Tailwheel
For about three and half weeks I have been experimenting with three different systems that I built of course. First is ebb and flow system via Rons 11 bottle system. second is a drip system that I converted from a Rubbermaid/ Ebb & Flow system And last is the so called bubbler system. The factors involved are Light, Nutes, and Medium in this case I am using grow Rocks. there is very little Noise or error if you will because the main factor Tomatoes were pretty much the the same height and thickness in the stems. actually with all the data I have I should run a Factorial design to confirm. Here are my findings the 9 bottle system did not fair as well as the other to systems but the main significant difference came from the bubbler system. The plants started out about 4 inches a piece in the bubbler system one of the four grew at a enormous rate and is now about 13.5 inches when I put this same in the ebb and flow via ron the growth rate slowed significant the similar plant that was in the drip system when put into the bubbler started to grow at a very large rate. and no this plant is about 10.5 inches I KNOW THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF FACTORS TO CONSIDER GENETICS, TIME OF DAY ETC... but all and all this bubbler system is the way to go I think have to really eliminate all noise, error and try again with other plants. the nutes I used was Foxfarm grow big one cap per gallon of water.
Pingman
Attn: Pingman
Go to: http://www.stonernet.org/spongebud/growroom_mechanics.htm
I'm not into pot, but this site has a lot of information on growing using a bubbler system. Explore the whole site, the guys setup really looks very sanitary to me.
FYI, I sent for and received a booklet outlining the proceedings of the first Non-Circulating hydroponic workshop held in Hawaii in 1997 from the Asian Vegetable Research and Development in Taiwan. Their primary goal is to develop systems for growing in HOT countries, SE Asia, India, etc.
They mention in the text that there are actually two sets of roots that a plant develops, one set for oxygen and one set for nutrient. I've just started studying the whole booklet (55 pages) and feel that maybe the bubbler system setup would exploit these two sets of roots and maximize plant growth. What you've mentioned seems to confirm that.
If you want, you can email me at tailwheel@asia.com and I will scan the booklet and send it to you in jpg format.
Maybe I'll just set up a system myself and see what happens. I've got a bunch of plants ready to go now and no place to put them. I could probably knock something out in a few hours if I can find the time.
Tailwheel
Att Tailwheel
Once I figure out how to grow Tomatoes correctly Perhaps I can try Canabis. I not there yet.
Pingman
I was wondering if you could tell me what the #1 selling hydroponic magazine in the world is? Also could you please tell what the #1 greenhouse manufacturer is? Thank you.
HELLO THAR,I'M IN THE PROCESS OF BUILDING AM UNDERGROUND HOME,I WISH TO MAKE COMPLETELY SELF-CYCLED.WHAT AND HOW SHOULD I RE-CYCLE THE GRAY WATER TO FEED THE PLANTS?WANT TO REUSE ALL THE WASTE WATER I CAN!I'M NOW USING THE WASHER AND SINK AND BATH TUB WATER BY RUNNING THEN THROUGH THE GRASS FILLED DITCH AND THEN INTO PITS DUG UNDER THE GARDEN FILLED WITH WOOD CHIPS FROM THE LOCAL SAW MILL COVERD WITH COMPOSTED SOIL.IM THE UNDERGROUND HOME DESIGN I,LL HAVESPRING WATER RUNNING THROUGHOUT THE ATRIUM WERE I'LL BE GROWING VEGYS AND DRAFT FRUIT TREES INSIDE.I WOULD VERY MUCH LIKE TO BEABLE TOUSE THE GRAY WATER FOR THE PLANTS!I'M WORKING ON AWAY TO USE THE SEPTIC GAS TO.THANKS FOR THE SITE,JB
I built the 11 plant garden and now have progressed further. . . I'm very interested in aeroponics but I have some questions.
Is any type of growth medium used in the systems that spray the roots with fine mist? If not, how are the plants supported? I have been looking at the systems for sale on growking.com and I want to build one. Has anyone else done this?
Does anybody have any plans/ diagrams that they can point me to?
Thank you, Eddie Noyes
Attn: Eddie Noyes
Re: Aeroponics
See my post to Pingman on Sept. 02. Go to http://www.stonernet.org/spongebud/growroom_mechanics.htm This website has info on building a system based on the Growking system.
You might pay attention to what he says about nutrient concentration used in a mist system. I made a aeroponic setup about 1-2 months ago and trashed it after using it a couple of weeks. The nutrient started coating a white powder throughout the pipes and sprayers. This guy says that you should cut the concentration down using the mist system.
Tailwheel
Built the 11 plant system. Haven't put the perlite in yet. Won't the perlite float out of the cups as the water rises up through the cups?
Yes so I would use grow rocks instead of perlite. Perlite is better for the drip from the top systems.
Tailwheel and others Ref - small/med tomatoes rot on bottom & pH Thanks for the advise & ideas. Will try suggestions when back in town. Tim
Saw an HPS light, the kind for outside use, at a home center for about $40. What's the difference between that and the expensive ones sold by the hydroponic companies?
Thanks,
Jeff
the deference between a grow light & a security light is the transformer of gases some nasty fumes because its made to run out doors if you can stand the smell they will work its kinda like you get what you pay for better off with a grow light or a green house
Re: Difference between HPS lights
There is no real difference between the lights you buy at the hardware store and at a hydroponics store. The ones at a hardware store often times have a built in ballast, and a grow light has a remote ballast, making it a bit cooler. The light they put out is the same, given the same reflector, which you can build. If the wattage is the same, go for the cheaper light.
Brett
Thanks for the info ,
Regarding the bubbler systems. . . . I'm not sure how they work. Do the plants still set in GroRox? Are they constantly submerged in the nutrient? If so, what role do the air pumps play in the process? I really just don't understand the mechanics of it. Maybe if someone could show me a diagram or describe the system in more detail for me. Can anyone help me?
Thanks again, Eddie Noyes
Attn: Eddie Noyes
Re: Bubbler systems
The plants are set in grow rocks and the bottom portion of the cup is immersed in the nutrient solution about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the cup.
The air pump oxygenates, agitates the solution, and by maintaining a solution temperature of 72 degrees to 75 degrees establishes the proper humidity for the solution to permeate throughout the root zone of the plants.
Don't worry about the mechanics of why it works, just do it. What the hell, it's only a plant. If it doesn't grow, try another method.
Tailwheel
Does anyone have any diagrams, or books or links to pages that describe how to wire your own HID lights? I hope to save some money by building my own. Any suggestions?
The book Gardening Indoors has a good chapter on lights and ballast.
Science Fair:
I'm 15 and am in 10th grade. I wanted to do something with hydroponics and so I started researching. I don't know what the certain percentages are for the nutrients that must go into the plant solution or where i could get them. Any ideas?
Please read Q & A Page 2 thru 53 above. Or use the Search
Page to narrow your search.
It's just like homework ain't it.
Hey i just built an ozone generator for about ten buck, It works really well, For about 10.00 bucks more im gonna put a small fan on it to make it even better. The reason it was so cheap is that i found an old neon transformer. You can buy them off ebay and make the cost go up about 25.00 bucks.
I also have been researching a method called Scrog (Screen of green, not sea) which involves training the plants under a piece of chicken wire. and sending the buds up through the hole, very efficient for fluorescent lights, because the effect is a 2d canopy of leaves, so you can grow with fluorescents and keep the light about 6 inches from every leaf. You see the reason fluorescent to good is because the light diffuses and is very weak after about 12 inches, so your lower leaves are staved for light, so you all can see the advantage of keeping al the leaves on the same plane.
Together with rons bleach bottle idea or maybe even 2liter bottle, you can make a very high output compact garden. An expected yield for a 2x2 8 ft tall box is (2 oz per square foot) 8 oz's per crop. now double the size 4x4 8ft tall (16 square ft) 2 lbs per crop.
another idea... use one size light to big. if you need a 250 watt light get a 400. now veg for 20 hours with a 250 wat bulb (you can use any bulb smaller than the ballast, bulbs draw power, ballasts don't push) then flower with a 400 at 12 on 12 off. the result you have lots o ligt for the important stage, (BUDDING of course:) but way more importantly, your power DOES NOT FLUCTUATE WITH EACH CROP!!! The power companies dont care how much power you use, Some dio have programs to watch for the tell-tale fluctuation. that coupled with a cheap homemade ozone generator, and you are covered in style.
I have a tendency to ramble and misspell, (especially when im in a hurry, like now) so please post questions or email me at fox@ovis.net. Why should i help anyone? Two reasons, first and foremost, to share the wealth. second, I don't have anywhere to grow :( so by helping you all i can feel as if im growing. id rather you all post any questions you have so every one can learn, but feel free to email.
ps i also have a local copy of a web page i found on wireing your own lights i can give to anyone.
Giga-Funk
Hello I am going hydro and found expenses that I didn't know existed WOW. So my question is has anyone ever tried using petrified wood broken up into small pieces it is very plentiful here and may be P.H balanced I haven't checked not that far along yet but Im getting there one dollar at a time.......Your friendly Uncle Al.
The more porous a medium is the better because it
needs to hold oxygen between waterings. Just about any inert material will work.
Just some better than others because of the oxygen and other factors.
Give it a try and let us know if it works.
I made my VERY FIRST hydroponic garden yesterday thanks to this website! It's a very basic gurgle garden but it works great. I'm using perlite now but would like to try grow rocks. I'm using organic nutrients from MetaNaturals: http://bella-via.com/
Grow Rocks: Where can I buy them the cheapest? Are there any online sources?
FireCloud
Try to find them as close to you as possible because the shipping will hurt.
Hi:
I am new to hydroponics and wanted to know if a pump that circulates the water is necessary. Is it okay to have free standing water if you have an oxygen pump. Also, is it okay to have a clear tank, or should it be so that light can't get in. Answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Yes a pump is necessary and yes a clear tank will get slimy from the light hitting the water.
What would you use for a nutrient solution in the 11 plant hydroponic system displayed on this site? Also I would like to thank the maker and members of this site it has been a big help with my project for school.
Any nutrient solution formulated for hydroponics will work fine.
What kind of pump should I use for my 11 plant system?
Around a 120 Gallon Per Hour submersible pump.
The Dip Stick $110.00 has lasted me the longest. www.wormsway.com
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