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Powdery and Downy Mildew
Building your own Indoor Grow Room part 2
Building your own Indoor Grow Room part 1
The Benefits of Chelated Micro-nutrients
Is the pH really that important?
Getting Bigger Yields From your Hydroponic Plants
Tips for getting the most out of your nutrients
Millions of dollars lost in hydroponic tomato plant sabotage
Growing Hydroponic Raspberries, part 2
what do you think about humidity beads ?
a quick question about bolting
A little question about vegetables
Can anyone suggest a good hydroponic setup?
what is the best hydroponic setup possible if i want to force feed and bulk up a plant in the shortest time possible! and what nutrient do i use
Attention: John White
There is NO comparison between growing in hydroponics and potting soil. Hydroponics wins hands down. Keep in mind that in hydroponic growing, the plants are being force fed nutrients whereas in soil, the plants put out more roots seeking nutrients in a form it can use.
I usually buy 6 packs of seedlings at my local Home Depot. Those that I don't put in a hydroponic setup, go into the ground. The difference in the growth rate and production of fruit is almost unbelievable using a hydro system. An added benefit is that I hav'nt had any bug problems in the hydro garden and am able to grow without using any poison sprays.
With any hydroponic setup and when growing tomato like plants, what should the ppm be when you transplant the seedlings to your growrocks?
600 - 700 ppm
Then as you go on thru the veg stage what should the ppm be?
700 - 1100 ppm
Lastly, what should it be during flower stages?
1100 - 1500 ppm
does the plant grow more fast while using the hydroponic method
A cup is 8 ounces or approx. 1/4 liter.
i am doing a major assignment at school and i am going to make a hydroponic garden and a soil garden and see which will grow faster and healthier, i know how to make the garden but i dont what chemicals you need and when to put them in, can you help me?
This is for the person that was asking about lighting. Yes street lights and most other outdoor lights used for for lighting large parking lots are HID lights. But there is a few things you need to now for safety reasons if you are going to operate one of these indoors. I currently use a 400 watt high pressure sodium that was made to be used outdoors. Although these are not recommended for indoor use the can be successfully used if you pay attention to what you are doing. First these units are made to be water tight so the ballast is part of the unit sealed inside. This makes the unit run very hot a lot hotter than the ones made to be run indoors. Outside they get plenty of good cool air and heat is transferred. If you decide to run one of these indoors you need to make sure you suspend this unit from the top of the ceiling hanging down somewhere in the middle of the room so it has good airspace all around. if have mine suspended from the ceiling using two 4' 3/8-16 steel rod and toggles to mount it to the ceiling. Make sure it is anchored well because these units can be very heavy I think mine is about 45 pounds. Next you need a fan fan to be blowing on this unit continually so you can transfer the heat away from this unit and out your growroom. I use A 20inch oscillating fan and snap the button on back so it stays still. It sits on a stool at the back of my room right behind the light so it vents the heat out the front and pulls cool air in the bottom. It is very important you transfer the heat away or the unit could over heat and ruin the ballasts and start a fire. If you are able to obtain a light and you are sure you can vent heat properly you next need to wire it another import step that needs to be done properly. The power demands in the ballast of this type of light can be 110v or 220v this is something you will need to check before using. on the light where the power supply wires go in there is a cover with screws normally the ballast is under this cover. Remove the cover the three supply wires going into the cover cover should be black white green make sure the black wire is attached to the wire inside the unit marked 110v and not on the 220v wire going to the ballast a big rectangular box, sometimes its marked on the ballast next to the supply terminal. you need to what the terminal is marked that the black wire is going to 110v or 220v a lot of these ballast have four terminals and give you the option to wire it either way. But most regular three prong household outlet are only 110v that's why this is important. Some places use them 220v volt because it uses less amps and is cheaper to run but this you need a 220v service and most households aren't equipped with this so be sure to what your light is wired to draw before using. Next you need to get power supply cord no smaller than 14guage wire remember the bigger the number the smaller the wire. I use a heavy-duty air conditioner supply cord if you call somewhere to find it ask for a pigtail it make it easier for the person to understand what you want. After you get the cord you'll find that most of the time the wires on the light and the wires on the pigtail are the same. then just match them up and connect with wire nuts. black is usually power, green is ground, white is common. sometimes the common can be red and the ground can be blue or just bare wire. once your SURE all of this has been done your light is ready to be plugged in and put to work. I don't recommend this type of light for really small grow rooms because heat could be a problem and may result in a buried out light or worst of all fire. this cove
The 3 - 400 watt MH factory lights I bought at the flea market
did have the 220 watt ballast connected to the top of the light but being a jack-off of
all trades I dismantled them and ran a long cord from the light to the ballast so I
could remotely place the hot ballast outside the room, eliminating the excess heat. I once
read a book about electricity. You must have read the same book.
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